How to Diagnose an Ignition Key That Won’t Turn

One of the most concerning issues that any driver can face at one point or another in their driving career is when the key is put into the ignition, but it refuses to turn.

The first instinct is to try to turn it harder, then to take it out and try again. Normally, a person will begin to think of all the different possibilities of what could be causing this obstruction of the turning of the key.

Frustration can set in very quickly because unlike some other car issues that may arise, seemingly out of nowhere, this is an issue that if not fixed, the car is not going to go anywhere. It will be impossible to even drive the car to a shop or mechanic in order to have them take a look at it. This can then cause the driver to panic as they begin to feel helpless and that their entire day and possibly week will now need to revolve around getting someone to come and take a look at the car to diagnose the problem.

Why Is My Ignition Key Not Turning?

However, there is good news for all people experiencing this frustrating yet quite common issue. The good news is that the problem of not being able to turn a key when it is inside the ignition can generally be easily solved by checking three main things.

The three factors that should immediately be checked when trying to resolve a key turning issue are general problems with components related to the ignition, an ignition lock cylinder problem, and finally, the issue can simply be the key itself. 

Caution: It is very important to remember that when checking these steps and when performing any sort of maintenance on a car that the parking brake is up and the car is in a safe and stable position.

Component Issues that Can Cause an Ignition Key to Not Turn

The first problems that can be the cause of the key not turning when inserted into the ignition are related component problems. There are three main components that are related to the ignition system which should be checked first when these issues arise, as they are the most common and the most likely to be behind the problem.

The good news is these components are the quickest to identify as problems and they are the easiest and fastest to remedy. The three components are as follows:

1 – The Steering Wheel

A built-in mechanism in cars and other vehicles prevents the steering wheel from moving once the key is removed. This same locking mechanism located inside the ignition system can sometimes cause the vehicle key to get stuck and not be able to turn when necessary.

The solution to this is generally a very simple fix. The driver should begin by grabbing the wheel firmly and moving it back and forth. They should create a jiggle-type motion with their hands so that the steering wheel is moving backward and forwards repeatedly.

Then, the driver should insert the key while the steering wheel is still being jiggled. The driver should then turn the key slowly while the wheel is still jiggling to try to unlock the pressure that is blocking the turning from happening.

When the pressure is relieved, the key should turn easily as it normally would.

2 – The Gear Selector

In automatic cars, sometimes the car must be in a specific gear in order to start the car. This is done for safety reasons and is implemented in most modern cars. The gears that the car needs to be in will normally be park or neutral.

If it’s seen that the vehicle is already in park, it is a good idea for the driver to then firmly grab the shifter and then jiggle it slightly back and forth to ensure that it is firmly locked into the gear. Sometimes the gear shifter will only be mostly in place, but still be a little out of place. The shifter needs to be totally locked into place for the key to turn.

After this is checked and the shifter has been jiggled into place, the key should be inserted once again and turned to see if this has fixed the key ignition turning issue.

As a reminder, this will only apply to cars that have automatic transmission system installed in them. Manual transmission cars do not have this safety locking mechanism for gears in place.

3 – The Battery

The third issue to check is the battery. This is an issue that some people will dread because there is no immediate and quick fix for this like some of the others. If the battery is dead and the car is quite new or high-end, then the key will usually refuse to turn at all. Higher-end and new cars have a very complex electronic ignition system, and this is one of the features of this system. The battery life will need to be checked to verify this. A jumper cable connected to another running engine can also help to verify this if you are stuck in a tight spot and you cannot check the battery life.

Issues with the Ignition Key That Can Cause Problems

When the first set of culprits have been eliminated as the issue, and when you are sure the issue is not the related components of the car, and then the next thing to check is the key itself. There are a few issues that are common with keys that may help explain what the problem is and these issues should be checked one by one.

1 – The Key Is Bent

Many times a car ignition will not turn if the key is bent. The bend in the key will make the ignition think that it is the wrong key and as a safety mechanism, refuse to start at all.

The tricky part is that many times a bent key will still fit snugly into the transmission and give the impression that the key still fits. In these scenarios, the key should be removed from the ignition and examined thoroughly.

If it is evident that there is a bend in the key, the key should then be hammered down flat and tried again inside the ignition.

Be very careful not to damage the key while trying to straighten it out. Use a tool or hammer with a rubber end in order to prevent denting and other damage.

2 – The Key is Old

This sounds strange, but a key being old is actually a common issue. Factory keys can go through a lot, and in time, they become worn out and out of shape. This prevents the key from locking into the pins inside the ignition the way they are meant to.

In order to verify this as the issue, a spare key should immediately be tried. If there is no spare key available, a new key will need to be made. This can be accomplished by copying down the VIN number and taking it to the dealership.

3 – Wrong Key

As silly as it sounds, many times people will pick up the wrong key. Many keys look the same, and sometimes the issue can be as simple as mistaking the wrong key for the right key. Always check twice to make sure that the key that is being used is the correct key for the car.

Issues with the Ignition Lock Cylinder

The key cylinder itself can have two common issues that can cause a key to stop turning when inserted into the ignition.

1 – Something Is Blocking It

Sometimes debris and other objects can get inside the key cylinder. When this happens, it needs to be cleaned out. In order to verify this as an issue, a flashlight can be used to look inside the key cylinder and see if there is anything to be removed.

When the cylinder is completely blocked up, sometimes metal can be found inside. A quick spray with an electric blower or a can of compressed air will generally do the trick.

2 – The Springs Are Stuck

Sometimes the springs and the pins inside the key cylinder can become locked or stuck in place. These pins and springs have to be set in exactly the right way to ensure that only a specific key will work on a car.

If the pins inside the key cylinder are stuck, they can be knocked back into place with a tack hammer by gently tapping on the ignition repeatedly. The goal is to loosen the pins, so strong force is not necessary and should be avoided.

After the pins and springs are loosened, the key should turn properly.

Fixing Your Ignition Key Not Turning

These are the most common issues that will cause a key to not turn once inside the ignition. For most people, checking and fixing these issues will fix the problem completely. When these problems fail to provide the expected result, a professional mechanic should be brought in to analyze the issue.


How Long Does a Car Battery Last?

Mechanic Testing Car Battery Ampage

The life of a car battery is all about its ability to energetically start an engine and keep itself charged over time. If a battery can’t maintain these basic qualities, it is unceremoniously declared “dead.”

How long a given battery can stay “alive” depends on many factors. Of course, the quality of the battery is key but other factors such as the environment are equally important throughout the battery’s life cycle.

Conditions such as temperature, humidity, installation, maintenance, operating environment, and other environmental factors have a major impact on a car battery’s longevity.

In a Perfect World, a Car Battery Will Last Six Years

To get things started, a baseline under ideal conditions is helpful. For this starting point, ideal conditions are assumed. That is, there are no crazy high or low temperatures, humidity isn’t excessive, the battery is installed properly, and the operating environment isn’t harsh (e.g., off-road racing or frequent starts).

In general, under these ideal conditions, one can generally expect the battery to last approximately six years.

Considering “average” conditions that include some extremes, the margin is wider at about two to five years.

Temperature and Humidity

If the operating environment is hot and humid, the lifespan is reduced due to chemical corrosion processes and water loss.

Contrary to popular belief, cooler northern climates actually increase a battery’s life as long as it is fairly mild and there aren’t extremely cold arctic-like conditions. Because cold weather conditions require more cranking power due to factors like oil viscosity in cold engines, many erroneously think that the battery is at fault. It is more about the strain on starter motors and other components that cold engines cause.

Installation and Maintenance

Like most anything else, it’s always an advantage to get things rolling with the proper installation. The cable connections must be clean and free of dirt or corrosion. The connections must be tight and not loose to the point that they can be easily moved by hand.

Lead-acid batteries are often heavy and somewhat bulky. As such, the battery itself needs to be secured in a frame that doesn’t allow movement while driving. This is usually accomplished with a clamp-like mechanism that firmly attaches to the base of the battery.

Having adequately installed the battery, the next thing of paramount importance is the maintenance of the battery during its use. This important aspect is where most fail to follow-through and thereby drastically reduce a battery’s life.

There are two main aspects of battery maintenance: fluid replacement and maintaining a charge. Most car batteries contain a mixture of water and acid that circulate among lead plates. Over time, some of the water is reduced due to evaporation and heat.

Many batteries are sealed units and do not require fluid replacement as evaporation is contained. Others require periodic water replacement. These types of batteries typically have caps on the top to allow for water refills. Checks and maintenance should take place with other fluid checks such as those associated with oil changes or coolant maintenance. For do-it-yourself people, battery water replacement is best done using distilled water to avoid contaminants and minerals present in tap water.

The other important aspect of battery maintenance is in keeping the battery fully charged. Car batteries don’t like being completely drained or periodic “hibernation” phases. While the occasional light being left on can’t be avoided, it is important not to let a battery become fully discharged.

It is also not healthy for car batteries to sit unused for long periods of time. This causes a slow drain as the battery remains “in the loop” and just the connections can cause drainage due to electrical resistance. Some people disconnect one side of the positive/negative connections if they know their car will be going into winter storage.

Car Battery Icon

The Operating Environment

Temperature and humidity have already been discussed but there are other environmental aspects to a battery’s life. For those that have special needs such as off-road driving or very frequent start-stop use, it is important to buy the right battery in the first place. For example, if one lives in a rural environment or maintains a cab service, attention needs to be paid to buying a battery that is heavy-duty from the start. While this may be more expensive at first, it will pay off in the long term.

It is clear that battery life depends on many factors. Where one lives, installation adequacy, maintenance discipline, and usage characteristics are the factors that determine how long one’s battery will happily provide that “get up and go” engine start. If a little attention is paid to these factors, a number of years can go by before that dreaded battery replacement.

Whether you own a gasoline, diesel or hybrid vehicle, the adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” applies to keeping car batteries in the game for many years.


Is it Safe to Drive when a Car is Leaking Transmission Fluid?

Driving a car that is leaking transmission fluid can be risky. If a car is leaking transmission fluid, it may not run the way that it should, and that can lead to additional risks.

Transmission fluid is used as lubrication and enables your vehicle to perform at optimal levels, so if your car is leaking transmission fluid, be warned that it may not perform at its peak.

You will be able to notice the leak because a red, green, or translucent fluid will be dripping underneath your vehicle. You can usually see this fluid in your driveway or on the street if you park there.

Once you notice a leak, it is important to get a leak fixed sooner rather than later. Getting the leak fixed can save money and increase the long-term health of the vehicle. Spending money in the short-term can save money in the long-term if the issue is resolved by a trained and certified professional. If you contact a mechanic, they can perform an inspection and help you resolve the issue.

What Does It Look like and Feel like?

Knowing what transmission fluid looks and feels like can help you recognize when your vehicle is leaking it. Transmission fluid is red, green, or translucent. Transmission fluid also has an oily touch and feel to it, and it can be slick. Transmission fluid will have a similar texture to engine oil or brake fluid.

Causes of Transmission Fluid Leaks

A common cause of transmission fluid leaks are gaps within your transmission. These gaps can cause fluid to leak out.

Transmission Pan Leaks

Transmission pans are one common reason for the leak. There are two main causes of a transmission pan leak.

The first is that your drain plug or bolt may not be tight enough. It is critical that these are checked for their tightness because they can be loosened over time. It is also critical to make sure that after your transmission fluid is changed that you ensure everything has been tightened properly after.

The second cause is usually due to a hole or gap within the transmission pan. If there is a gap or hole within the transmission pan, you might experience a transmission fluid leak. A small hole within the transmission pan can cause the leak and is a common issue.

It is easy for an object, such as a rock, to puncture the transmission pan, so it is critical to make sure there are no holes in your transmission pan when you begin to experience a leak.

Cracked Seals

Seals are another cause of a transmission fluid leak. When seals are exposed to heat on a consistent basis, they are prone to cracking. Transmission fluid can seep through the cracks of the seals and this could be the cause for your leak. The output shaft or input shaft will usually be the part of the transmission that is leaking if a seal is the primary cause of the leak.

Failed Pan Gasket

A pan gasket may fail which can lead to a transmission fluid leak. The common reasons for a pan gasket failure are poor installation, bad alignment, or the fact that it is exposed to a lot of heat. The pan gasket is relatively inexpensive to replace, and you should consider doing so as soon as you can if this is the problem. Replacing the pan gasket when it has issues can prevent more transmission-related issues from developing down the road.

Cracked Torque Converter

The torque converter can be another cause of a transmission fluid leak in your vehicle. Cracks in the torque converter or damaged bearings can lead to a transmission fluid leak. These are not easy to fix, and due to their complexity, you should consider taking your vehicle to a professional and skilled mechanic if the torque converter appears to be the primary reason why the transmission fluid is leaking.

Broken Fluid Lines

The fluid line can become cracked over time. Standard debris that hits the fluid line or simply being exposed to a lot of heat can cause fluid lines to crack. In some cases, the fluid lines might completely break, and these will be an obvious reason for the transmission leak.

Like torque converter leaks, this can be complex to the extent that the best option is usually to go to a professional mechanic with the skills and training required to fix this problem and avoid further damaging your vehicle.

What to Do When Your Car Is Leaking Transmission Fluid

Once you notice that your vehicle is leaking transmission fluid it is critical to get the leak fixed. Although you can drive the vehicle, the leaking transmission fluid can be a sign of bigger issues down the road.

Getting a small leak fixed is wise to do before it becomes a bigger and more expensive leak to fix. If you do not get the leak fixed in the immediate future, you could have more issues in the more distant future, so for the health of the vehicle, it is often wise to get the issue resolved sooner rather than later.

Based on how the fluid is leaking an experienced mechanic will be able to know where the leak is coming from. This will allow the mechanic to diagnose the issue faster and more accurately than an untrained individual may be able to diagnose the reason as to why the transmission fluid is leaking.

If it is something as simple as a bolt or hinge being loose, the mechanic has the ability and expertise to fix the issue. If it is something more serious, the mechanic will be able to diagnose the issue and replace parts if that is what is needed.

Being proactive and contacting a mechanic will save money and enable the vehicle to last longer.


How to Read and Understand Check Engine Light (OBD-II) Codes

Mechanic Checking Engine

The Check Engine light can be somewhat of a mystery to car owners. When it pops on, it can indicate a wide number of issues with a vehicle, ranging from the mundane to the serious.

Part of the confusion around the Check Engine light is that it can indicate so many different things. The Check Engine light can refer to problems in the transmission, ignition, fuel system, emission controls, or computer circuitry, amongst other things. Symptoms of the problem may not be apparent. Therefore, we need the car to give us more information about what’s going wrong if we ever hope to fix it.

What Are OBD-II Codes?

Modern vehicles use DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored on an onboard diagnostic computer (OBD) to let a mechanic with the right diagnostic tools understand exactly what is the trouble with the vehicle.

DTC, OBD codes, and OBD-II are terms that are now virtually synonymous. They all refer to the five-letter code you get from the onboard computer that indicates the problem.

How Do We Read OBD-II Codes?

OBD-II codes can be read from the vehicle using an OBD scanner. This is inserted into the vehicle’s OBD port, which you’ll usually find under the driver’s side dashboard near the pedals. OBD ports don’t require tools to access and have a 16-pin trapezoidal connector.

The scan tool will power up when it’s plugged into the OBD port and should have an option to ‘Read Codes.’ From there, it will display the various error codes the vehicle is complaining about. It is possible there are multiple OBD-II codes to read, so jot them all down.

How Do I Interpret an OBD-II Code?

OBD codes are all five letters and digits. This is all you need to get a good understanding of the underlying issue with the vehicle and take the next steps.

You can split the OBD-II code into four sections. The first section is the first character, which is always a letter. This is followed by a number from 0 to 3. The third section is the third number, which is always a number from 0 to 9. Finally, we consider the last two numbers together, from 00 to 99.

Check Engine Light Image

The First Character Determines the Overall Type of Issue

There are four possible letters for the first letter of the OBD-II code:

  • P — This indicated a problem in the powertrain system
  • B — This indicates a problem in the body system (e.g. airbags)
  • C — This indicates a problem with the chassis (e.g. anti-lock brakes)
  • U — This indicates a problem with the network comms system

OBD-II codes other than those regarding the powertrain are rare and require specific tools from the manufacturer to diagnose properly.

The Second Character Determines Whether the Issue Is Manufacturer Specific

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) chose a number of generic codes for the EOBD/OBD-II standard that are the same for all manufacturers, makes, and models. These are part of a generic list that all manufacturers use. We call these generic codes.

Some manufacturers have added their own error codes so that they can be more specific about the issue at hand. For example, if a new model comes out with an engine part that is not accurately reflected in the generic code list. We call these manufacturer-specific.

The second character of the OBD-II code (and sometimes the third) lets us know whether to check the generic list of codes or consult a manufacturer-specific list.

How the second character of the OBD-II code is to be interpreted depends on the overall type of issue ascertained from the first character above:

  • P0 — Generic
  • P1 — Manufacturer-specific
  • P2 — Generic
  • P30 to P33 — Manufacturer-specific
  • P34 to P39 — Generic
  • B0 — Generic
  • B1 — Manufacturer-specific
  • B2 — Manufacturer-specific
  • B3 — Generic
  • C0 — Generic
  • C1 — Manufacturer-specific
  • C2 — Manufacturer-specific
  • C3 — Generic
  • U0 — Generic
  • U1 — Manufacturer-specific
  • U2 — Manufacturer-specific
  • U3 — Generic

The most common codes begin with P0 (a generic powertrain issue) and P1 (a manufacturer-specific powertrain issue)

The Third Character Determines a More Specific Part

The third character can help you narrow in on where the problem lies. It is a number from one-nine. In the case of powertrain issues:

  • 1 — Problem with the fuel or air metering systems (e.g. the mass airflow sensor)
  • 2 —Problem with the fuel or air metering injection systems (e.g. the fuel injector)
  • 3 — Problem with the ignition system (e.g. engine misfire)
  • 4 —Problem with the emissions systems (e.g. the catalytic converter)
  • 5 —Problem with the speed control and idle control systems
  • 6 —Problem with the internal computer circuits and electronics
  • 7 — Problem with the transmission
  • 8 — Problem with the transmission
  • 9 — Problem with the transmission

The Final Characters Determine the Specific Fault

The last two characters determine exactly the error fault. At this point, you can check an online source such as OBD-Code to get a full understanding of the exact fault the OBD is warning you about.

Further Troubleshooting

Often you’ll get a string of OBD-II codes in a row that indicate a range of problems. This is not something to particularly worry about; focus on the first codes as they point to the real problem. The additional codes may just be symptoms of the original problem, so once you’ve fixed it, they’ll go away.

OBD-II codes are a diagnostic tool but the system is not particularly smart. The OBD can tell you about the sensors that are complaining or where it thinks there is an issue, but it is up to you to determine the true cause of the symptoms and solve the problem. Often, the underlying issue can be as simple as moisture on a sensor, a loose fuel cap, or a poor electrical connection. These relatively simple problems can still trip the Check Engine light and


Is it necessary to service your vehicle at a dealership?

During the founding of BUKL, my co-founder and I looked at who our potential customers would be, and one of the major determining factors was the age of the vehicle itself. 

Our initial assumption was that any car less than three years old would be out of our customer base as these cars needed to be serviced at dealerships for warranty reasons or a pre-purchased maintenance package. Through our research we learned that it doesn’t matter where you take your vehicle to be serviced.

The Hard Truth

By law, manufacturers cannot force you to service your vehicle at a dealership, meaning that your warranty is still valid if you take your vehicle to an independent auto shop for scheduled maintenance.

However, there are some guidelines to ensure that you’re not voiding your warranty, while also providing the proper maintenance regimen for your vehicle’s needs.

The first is that you want to ensure your vehicle is being serviced on schedule for mileage or the time duration since your last oil change. This is set by the manufacturer, and you can find it within your vehicle’s manual, though many newer vehicles will simply provide a notification on the dash that a required service is upcoming. It is important to follow this schedule, and to request and keep all invoices provided by an auto shop that clearly list the vehicles mileage at the time of servicing.

The second is to ensure that the fluids and filters being used match what is recommended by the manufacturer. This information can be found in the vehicle’s manual, but should also be listed on all work orders and invoices provided by independent auto shops.

These two items are key to adhering to your manufacturer’s policy of maintaining warranty in the case that something does malfunction with the vehicle during this period. After consulting with a local Chrysler dealership, having invoices that prove that the vehicles oil was changed correctly and on time from an independent auto shop, for example, would suffice for a warranty claim if an engine did start to malfunction.

Making A Decision

After speaking to a range of BUKL customers, it is evident that there is mixed feelings around visiting a dealership for maintenance. For many, dealerships are viewed as the best choice to have certified mechanics with specialized training on performing repairs on your car. Other customers were under the impression that the upselling and lack of clarity on the necessity of specific repairs justified visiting and forming a relationship with an independent auto shop.

In our view, the final decision comes down to the nature of the repair. For scheduled maintenance, independent auto shops can offer a geographically convenient and well priced service. At the same time you will develop a relationship with a mechanic that will come to know you and your vehicle.

For larger repairs such as a malfunctioning electrical system, we recommend taking your vehicle to a dealership. Larger and more complex issues will usually be unique to your vehicle’s year and model, and more often than not a mechanic at the dealership would have run into the issue once before. 

For everyday maintenance and repairs you can use the BUKL website (https://bukl.co/quote) or our iOS and Android app to get transparent and guaranteed pricing at over 150 independent auto shops in the GTA.


Why Auto Shops Won’t Give Quotes Over Phone

Mechanic On Phone

A few years ago, I would have said that auto shops don’t give quotes on the phone because if your car is on their hoist, you’re more likely to agree to agree to whatever price they’ve made up.

The quoting process is much less cynical, but slightly more complicated than I had originally thought, which was essentially: “These guys have worked on thousands of cars so they generally know how much the parts cost and they add in whatever they think the labor will be”.

As it turns out, parts prices are highly variable depending on the distributor, the part itself, and the specific vehicle.

It also became apparent that there are over 30,000 unique vehicles (or at least that’s how many we have in our database) and it would be unwise to think that the same job would take around the same amount of time on those specific vehicles.

At this point, you might be wondering “Well why wouldn’t auto shops just time how long the job takes and charge me out that way”.

That’s not how the industry works and for good reason.

The industry revolves around “hours”, which can be set by the shop or dealership, or they can use industry standard labor estimating software such as Mitchell1.

These hours keep things fair by rewarding the better mechanics and punishing the bad ones.

For example, a front brake job might be set at 1.5 hours. That’s what will show up on the work-order and your invoice. If the mechanic has no experience and has no idea what they are doing, then it might take them 3 hours. That’s not exactly your problem, is it? You still pay the 1.5 hours. If the mechanic is good, they might finish in an hour because they’ve done the same job 20 times this week. That’s the trade-off.

The consumer ends up paying the same amount, but this is how the good shops maximize profit: efficiency and experience.

Warehouse

For auto parts, most mechanics have their own distributor – someone they’ve had a good working relationship with for many years. This distributor might have just run out of stock for brake pads that fit your specific vehicle. The only brake pads they have might be the cheapest option, and generally, mechanics don’t want to go with the cheapest option as there are more quality issues, more complaints, and it’s a bigger headache for everyone involved if something goes wrong.

So maybe they have to call their backup parts distributor to check stock and prices. Just because a part fits does not mean it’s an option, especially if it’s the ultra-premium version that is unnecessary for the average consumer.

Keep in mind, at the end of all this, the mechanic must be able to get you to agree to pay for it.

They want that part of the transaction to be as smooth as possible because the more time they spend talking, the lower amount of jobs completed, which results in lower overall profit.

The truth behind why auto shops don’t give quotes over the phone is a combination of the following three reasons:

What You Think You Need vs. What You Actually Need

There’s a significant amount of customers that call and ask for quotes for jobs they think they need.

“How much to change my battery?”

“How much to replace my rear brake rotors?”

Sometimes that’s what’s required, but sometimes it’s really not. The battery could be fine, but the alternator is malfunctioning.

The rotors might not be worn, but the calipers aren’t clamping properly.

Any responsible auto shop should be inspecting the vehicle themselves before giving an accurate quote.

Time

It takes time to construct an accurate quote, and that quote is binding by law (up to a 10% difference).

When customers call to ask, it really seems like they will just go for the shop that gives the lowest number, and instead of trying to convince them why that may not be the best idea, it’s simply easier to not waste time quoting these jobs that won’t close.

Mechanics are much more willing to spend the time both constructing the quote and breaking down the cost if they see your initial commitment from dropping by in person.

Uncertainty

This one happens. We’re not sure how often it does, but we know it happens. We’ve had auto shops tell us that they used our services to quote jobs because they simply weren’t sure of how much to charge.

This doesn’t diminish the expertise of the mechanic. After all, most of these people want to spend their time fixing cars, not fiddling with what is essentially math homework.

If you’re ever calling an auto shop and they refuse to give you a quote over the phone, we recommend asking for their hourly labor rate that they charge out on work-orders. Keep in mind, every shop knows this rate and are obligated to include it in your bill at the end.

Of course, you can always use our web app (https://bukl.co/quote) or download our mobile app to see transparent pricing for various automotive services from over 150 auto shops in the GTA.